Climbing Training Log for Ian Mulvany
1. Goals for 2008:
- Onsight Grit E2
- Redpoint f6c+
- 10 weekende+ trips in UK
- 5 red problems in a day in font
- 80 kg weight
- build climbing wall
- get driving license
1. Ticklist
- nothing yet!
Week Overview (days at climbing wall, weeknumber:days at wall)
1:1 2:1 3:3 4:4 5:3 6:0 7:1 8:1 9:0 10:2 11:1 12:1 13:3 14:2 15:1 16:1 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
Week Overview (days doing specific fingerboard fingerwork)
1:0 2:0 3:0 4:0 5:0 6:4 7:2 8:2 9:0 10:0 11:1 12:3 13:0 14:0 15:1 16:0 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
Week Overview (combined)
1:1 2:1 3:3 4:4 5:3 6:4 7:3 8:3 9:0 10:2 11:1 12:4 13:3 14:2 15:2 16:1 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
Running totals
days: 1, 2, 5, 9, 12, 16, 19, 23, 23, 25, 26, 12:30, 13:33, 14:35 15:37, 16:38 time: 20.5, 23, 25, 25, 30, 33, 12:35.5, 13:43, 14:47 15:49.5, 16:51.5 meters: 215, 215, 263, 263, 335, 12:400, 13:400, 14:400, 15:440, 16:476 moves: 590, 740, 755, 755, 895, 11:895, 12:995, 13:1225, 14:1365, 15:1415
Grade Pyramid
There should exist a grade pyramid, so for example if I can climb 10 5c (V1/V2) boulder problems in one month, then I should be able to climb one problem of grade 6a (V3/V4). I'm going to see if I can keep a list of the numbers of different problems of a given grade that I can lead and boulder of a given grade per month. At the month level I should have enough statistics to be meaningful, and have a small enough range to measure a change in preformance. I'm not going to make any distinction in this account between onsight, redpoint or flash.
Feb Mar, April
6a 0 5 1 5c 2 12 4 5b 9 15 6 5a 4 6 1 4c 3 5 1 4b 3 3 4a 3 2 1
Lead
6c 0 0 0 6b + 0 1 1 6b 1 1 1 6a + 1 3 1 6a 1 3 5 5 0 1 0
best efforts year to date
lead 6b boulder: 6a
Week Notes (any specific highlights or comments)
week 14: birthday week, a bit tired, too much booze and chocolate, also was at a conference at the start of this week
week 13: Significat improvement this week. Over 4 days of bouldering I sent 5 UK 6a problems and 12 5c problems, basically pissing up a lot of them and working hard on others.
This is the biggest week on week improvement that I have prbably ever seen in my climbing, I think proper rest and eating and sleeping well has helped with this, I hope so at any
rate. I'm still below my top form, but it now seems to be visible, just a few months away perhaps. This has also conincided with having the fingerboard up and running again
and using it in conjunction with weights. I'm still overweight, can't wait to drop a little in weight.
week 12:
week 11: got better, seriously, right tricep after one week's rest is totally better, and i was feeling all the stronger for it. I may have done a 6b+ at the german wall, but it probably doesn't count as I was going for a 6c and fell off in the middle of the second crux. Still, progress.
week 10: went climbing on Monday and Thursday, but after each session my right tricep was fairly strained, so I have decided to rest for week 11
week9: went snowboarding
week 8: again, a busy week, had one good session at the wall, and got on the fingerboard a bit, also went for one run. No breakthroughts steady as she goes.
week 7: a bit tied up at the start of the week with being away, and then I pulled too hard on the board one day, but recovered within 3 days. Went for a run once, it was good, should do more. No great improvement, but not bad either.
week 6: First week that I didn't manage to get to the climbing wall. I used my fingerboard 4 times this week and after regigging the layout of the holds I can now comfortably do the metolius 10 min workout. I want to move to doing this with weights in March. The prospect for the next three weeks in terms of climbing wall is slim, but I will be skiing for a week!
week 5: 3 days at the wall, one concentrating on PE, must push to do this again at least once a week for the next month. I also need to work on being more tenacious on boulder problems, need to extend my max time past 4:20 and use my fingerboard. One week without beer dropped me nearly a kilo. At that rate I should be back to 80kg by April, that would be a nice birthday present.
week 4: got in 4 days at the wall, weight continues to stabailse below 85, and I feel the improvement, but it is clear that less beer and more sleep would be very good for me.
week 3: my crimp strength is really poor, I need to work on this. Weight seems to be drifting back upwards, but working 5c boulder problems was going well. 6a seems way way harder for me at the moment. I need to do something to break into this, I think getting a wall up is going to be crucial so that I can start to isolate training for fingers, and get some daily routine down to start chipping away at my weight. I was thinking of taking up running this week, but didn't.
week 2: got norovirus :(
Date Log (daily training notes and weekly summary)
day template: 2008.01.11 loc: duration: boulder: moves: meters: top rope: lead: finger: train: weight run: comment:
week 16 2008.04.14 Monday location: westway duration: 2 hours routes: 6a+, 6b/+, 6a meters: 36 comment: felt weak but pulled hard, yay!
week 15
2008.04.14 Sunday restrday (went for a run)
2008.04.13 Saturday restday
2008.04.12 Friday finger: 45 min session, neil gresham set, v good.
2008.04.11 Thursday restday
2008.04.10 Wednesday restday
2008.04.09 Tuesday restday weight: 84.3 comment, fat bastard
2008.04.08 Monday locaiton: Westway duration: 2.5 hours boulder: 5c, 5c, 5b, 5a moves: 50 routes: 6b, 6a, 6c tr failed, 6b+ 1r meters: 40 comment: 6b first route of the night, on-sight, pretty good,
week 14
2008.04.07 Sunday location: The Castle duration: 2 hours moves: 70 boulder: 5b, 5b, 5b, 4c, 5c
2008.04.06 Saturday restday
2008.04.05 Friday location: The Castle duration: 2 hours moves: 70 boulder: 6a, 5c, 4a, 5b, 5b comment: a good bit more tired than last weekend, but worked really hard on the red 6a, getting close, and also on the blue 6b. Felt weaker than the week before, more tired, slow, but that's OK
2008.04.03 Thursday restday
2008.04.02 Wednesday restday
2008.04.01 Tuesday restday
2008.03.31 Monday restday
week 13
2008.03.30 Sunday locatoin: the castle duration: 2.5 hours moves: 100 boulder: 6a, 5c, 5b, 5b, 5a, 5b 5b
2008.03.29 Saturday locatoin: the castle duration: 2.5 hours moves: 120 boulder: 6a, 5c, 5c, 5c, 5c, 5c, 5c, 5c, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5a, 4c
2008.03.28 Friday comment: restday
2008.03.27 Thursday comment: restday
2008.03.26 Wednesday locatoin: the castle duration: 2.5 hours moves: 100 boulder: 6a, 5c, 5c, 5c, 4c, 5b, 5b, 5b
2008.03.25 Tuesday comment: restday
2008.03.24 Monday comment: restday
week 12
2008.03.23 Sunday fingerboard: 10 mind session comment: restday
2008.03.22 Saturday fingerboard: neil gresham sesison comment: restday
2008.03.21 Friday weight: 83 comment: restday
2008.03.20 Thursday weight: 83 comment: restday
2008.03.19 Wednesday location: the castle duration: 2.5 hours moves: 100 boulder: 6a, 6a, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5a, 5a, 5a, 4c, 4a, 4a comment: first 6a!
2008.03.18 Tuesday weight: 83.5 fingerboard comment: + 4 kilo 10 min set, yay!
2008.03.17 Monday comment: restday
week 11
2008.03.16 Sunday comment: restday
2008.03.15 Saturday location: Thalkirchen, munich duration: 3.5 hours meters: 65m lead: 6, 7-, 6+, 7 comment: restday
2008.03.14 Friday comment: restday
2008.03.13 Thursday comment: restday
2008.03.12 Wednesday weight: 83.5 kg comment: restday
2008.03.11 Tuesday weight: 82.7 kg
2008.03.10 Monday weight: 83.3 kg
week 10
2008.03.09 Sunday comment: restday
2008.03.08 Saturday comment: restday
2008.03.07 Friday comment: restday
2008.03.06 Thursday location: castle duration: 2 hours boulder: 5c, 5b, 5b, 5a, 4c, 4c, 4b, 4b, 4b, moves: 80 comment: ended up with a pretty sore tricep again, so I have decided to rest from climbing for a week.
2008.03.05 Wednesday
2008.03.04 Tuesday weight: 82.9 kg
2008.03.03 Monday location: Westway duration: 3h boulder: v1, v1 moves: 60 lead: 6a, 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 5+ top rope: 6b+ meters: 72 comment: arm pull from snowboarding was a tiny bit worse than anticipated, so I had a steady day, was v happy with movement and the 6a+ routes were delightful, one with only screw ons for feet. weight: 83.3 kg
week9
snowboarding,
week 8
2008.02.22 Sunday comment: restday
2008.02.22 Saturday fingerboard: 10 min set
2008.02.21 Friday fingerboard: 10 min set
2008.02.20 Thursday run: 6.8 km
2008.02.19 Wednesday weight: 85 comment: restday
2008.02.19 Tuesday weight: 84.4 comment: restday
2008.02.18 Monday location: Westway duration: 2 hours boulder: v1, v1, v2 moves: 15 lead: 6a+, 6a, 6b, 6b 1r (it were a hard un) meters: 48
week 7
2008.02.17 Sunday location: The Castle duration: 2.5 hours boulder: 4a,4a,4a,4b,4b,4b,5a,5a,5a,5a,5b,5b,5b,5c moves: 150
2008.02.16 Saturday fingerboard: 10min metolius set, getting easy
2008.02.15 Friday restday
2008.02.14 Thursday other: went for a run, 34min, 6k, ok, not too bad.
2008.02.13 Wednesday weight: 83.9 comment: resday, over pulled yesterday with the weights on, so I have a small shoulder tweak and it will need a few days rest.
2008.02.12 Tuesday fingerboard: used almost a complete set from planet fear arcticle by niel gresham, probably about 30 of pretty hard work on small holds, can deel it a little today, it was a really good workout. I htink 10 min metolius set should feel like a path next time I try it, weight: 83.4
2008.02.11 Monday comment: in NL for talk
week 6
2008.02.10 Sunday comment: travelling for work, in NL
2008.02.09 Saturday fingerboard: did metolius 10 min set, no breaks, 42 s hang at end comment: rest hold to make the hang on the medium edge more direct.
2008.02.08 Friday comment: restday
2008.02.07 Thursday fingerboard: can't remember result
2008.02.06 Wednesday weight: 84.2 comment: restday, feeling muscle tiredness after a hard bouldering session on Sunday and two days on the fingerboard. time for a rest.
2008.02.05 Tuesday weight: 84.0 fingerboard: metolius 10 min, 14s large edge, 24s final hang comment:
2008.02.04 Monday weight: 83.6 fingerboard: metolius easy (only 10s on large edge, not 20, 20s final hang), 3 sets of pyramids, pocket, jug, jug comment: first day using the fingerboard! need to improve on large edge, will stay in metolius 10 min easy routine for one month, then I will do the same again in March with a weight belt. Need to extend pyramids to be able to do 7 - 10 sets, currently doing 3.
week 5
2008.02.03 loc: The Castle duration: 2 hours boulder: got one of the big dynos, nearly got a 6a, some 5b's 5c's and close on some other 5c's moves: 70 comment: I nearly got a technical 6s, but only pulled on it 3times, I should have been more tenacious, and I recalled on the bus on the way home some advice that I gave phil years ago, about using each attempt to concentrate and try something different and learn about the problem. If I do this I should be able to break into 6a. I also mounted my fingerboard, and realise that my finger strength is way down, roll on fingerboard training, woot!
2008.02.02 comment: restday
2008.02.01 weight: 84.0 comment: restday
2008.01.31
loc: the castle
duration: 2 hours
boulder: sets of laps to build pe, 3.50, 4.10, 4.20, 4.00 min sets, some with +4kg, then at end I flased a 5c and 5b boulder
problem
moves: 150
weight: 83.7
comment: working on power endurance, doing laps around the boulder island, getting past 4 1/2 min is hard, this is
the sweet-spot in terms of time.
2008.01.30 loc: The Castle duration: 3 hours climbing: meters: 60 leading: 6a+, 6c lots of rests, 6a fail (flash pump), 6a+ fail, 5, 6b+fail, 6c fail (crack, nearly got to top), 4+, 4+reverse moves: 20 bouldering: 5c, nearly another 5c and some easy problems weight: 83.9 kg comment: nearly dropped Tom, slack belaying, not good. Got an early flash pump and it killed me, felt strong during bouldering at start of session, got all the moves on a 6c and nearly flashed the crack in the roof, but need to improve power-endurance, will do sessions on boulder islands with weights next day, aim to fail in the 4-6min region.
2008.01.29 weight: 84.5 kg comment: restday
2008.01.28 weight: 84.4 kg comment: restday
Week 4
2008.01.27 loc: The Castle duration: 1.5 hours moves: 50 bouldering: mostly easy stuff weight: 83.8 kg comment: taking an easy day
2008.01.26 loc: The Castle duration: 2 hours climing: leading: 6a+ os, 4b os (+downclimb), 6a+ os, 6c 6 rests meters: 50 weight: 84.8 kg comment: restday
2008.01.25 weight: 85.5 kg comment: restday
2008.01.24 weight: 84.8 kg comment: restday, had beers and dim sum and karaoke
2008.01.23 loc: The Castle duration: 2.5 hours weight: 84.8 kg boulder: 5c os, and numerous other 5b's. Nearly got my first 6a moves: 50 comment: got the competion 5c at the panels, nearly got my first 6a which is also at the panels.
2008.01.22 comment: restday
2008.01.21 weight: 84.9 kg loc: Westway duration: 3 h meters: 55 lead: 6a, 6b 2r, 6a, 6a+, 6a+ boulder: v1 rp, 4th go, v2f, v2f, v2f, v3f moves: 50 comment: my boulder power packed in pretty quickly, probably flash burn, and not enough rest, but it didn't affect my lead strength too much. Clearly more small hold power. The v3 that I did was never v3, just a technical balancy problem.
Week3
2008.01.20 comment: restday, lots of heavy lifting from ikea
2008.01.19 loc: The Castle duration: 3 h bouldering: 5c os, 5c worked, lot's of 5b's moves: 100+ comment: crimp strength is very poor
2008.01.18 weight: 84.4 kg
2008.01.17 loc: The Castle duration: 2.5 hours boulder: 4a, 4b, 5b, 5b all on sight, failed on two 5cs, moves: 50 meters: 50 lead: 6b 1r, 6b 5r, 6b flash top rope: 6b+ dogged, totally dogged, the crack route weight: 85.1 kg
2008.01.16 weight: 84.4 kg comment: restday
2008.01.15 weight: 84.0 kg comment: restday
2008.01.14 loc: westway duration: 3 h boulder: moves: 30 meters: 50 top rope: 6a+, 5+ lead: 6b+ 1r, 6a 1r, 6a fail, 5+ flash. finger: 2 x 3s hang, medium campus comment:
Week2
2008.01.13: loc: home dur: 30 min train: sets of bar + frame 80kg
2008.01.12: loc: home duration: 30 min train: 10,6,6 pu 90kg
2008.01.07 loc: westway duration: 2h lead: 6b 1rest meters: 70
Week1
2008.01.05 loc: castle duration: 2 h b: couple of routes moves: 50